{"id":590,"date":"2022-08-30T00:16:19","date_gmt":"2022-08-29T20:16:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.jrtwine.com\/blog\/?p=590"},"modified":"2026-03-27T09:35:51","modified_gmt":"2026-03-27T05:35:51","slug":"newest-version-of-ar-ii-documentation","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/newest-version-of-ar-ii-documentation\/","title":{"rendered":"Newest Version of AR-II Documentation"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>Atari Regulator\/Audio II (AKA the A\/R-II) <\/strong><br \/>\n<strong>Version -02 Information<\/strong><\/p>\n<h2>By James R. Twine (jtwine@jrtwine.com) \u00a92009-2026<br \/>\nLatest version available online at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.jrtwine.com\/blog\/?p=590\">https:\/\/www.jrtwine.com\/blog\/?p=590<\/a><\/h2>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>References and Source Material<\/h2>\n<p>Information is this document is from personal experience with these beasts, and some was stole<strong>^H^H^H^H^H<\/strong>\u2026 um, I mean\u2026 <strong><em>inspired<\/em><\/strong>\u2026 from many sources including official Atari docs (wiring diagrams, schematics) and Internet-based sources from authors that are far smarter than I, including:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/www.therealbobroberts.net\/arbd.html\">The Real Bob Roberts<\/a> (<strong>http:\/\/www.therealbobroberts.net\/arbd.html<\/strong>)<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"http:\/\/melchman.net\/arcade\/Pr0n\/tour\/ARII\/index.html\">melchman.net<\/a> (<strong>http:\/\/melchman.net\/arcade\/Pr0n\/tour\/ARII\/index.html<\/strong>)<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/bitslicer.tripod.com\/ar_SENSE%20_mod.htm\">https:\/\/bitslicer.tripod.com\/ar_SENSE _mod.htm<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/forums.arcade-museum.com\/\">VAPS<\/a> (<strong>https:\/\/forums.arcade-museum.com<\/strong>)<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ukvac.com\/forum\/\">UKVAC<\/a> (<strong>https:\/\/www.ukvac.com\/forum<\/strong>)<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/groups.google.com\/g\/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting\">games.video.arcade.collecting<\/a> (<strong>https:\/\/groups.google.com\/g\/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting<\/strong> &#8211; yes, I am THAT old)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Legalese<\/h2>\n<p>This document\u2019s content was compiled and written by James R. Twine, \u00a92009-2026.\u00a0 It can be freely shared or even incorporated into other documentation if an accurate attribution is present.\u00a0 OK, now the commonsense warning:<\/p>\n<p><strong>Some of the information in this document may be incorrect!!!<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>The reader (um, that means <strong>YOU<\/strong>) assumes <strong><em>all risk<\/em><\/strong> of using or misusing this information.\u00a0 I am not responsible if the information in this document results in damage to your AR-II, damages your game, burns your house down, gets your sister pregnant, kills your dog, causes you to get divorced, etc.\u00a0 By continuing to read this document and\/or apply the information contained within, you acknowledge the above and <strong><em>assume all risks of using the information provided<\/em><\/strong>.<\/p>\n<h2>We Will Start by Just Getting This Out of the Way\u2026<\/h2>\n<p><strong><em>The notorious SENSE mod<\/em><\/strong>.\u00a0 The arcade community seems split on this one.\u00a0 Not exactly a 50\/50 split, but more people seem to recommend performing the mod.\u00a0 The rest vote for keeping the <strong>SENSE<\/strong> circuit intact, and \u201csimply\u201d performing proper maintenance and\/or other mods on the game to alleviate the connectors heating up and burning, which is the primary reason for suggesting that one should disable the <strong>SENSE<\/strong> circuit.<\/p>\n<p>Personally, I prefer to learn from history \u2013 suggesting that one correctly maintain their game and keep their edge connectors clean is great.\u00a0 But we all know that people <em>just do <strong>not<\/strong> do it<\/em>.\u00a0 So personally, I suggest performing the mod, and directions for doing so are included in this document.\u00a0 Besides, I think it is better to find out that your connectors are going bad by a voltage drop causing the game to stop working, not by your connectors getting too hot and deteriorating further.<\/p>\n<p>That said, you will see people talk about \u201cbulletproofing\u201d an AR-II, and then they simply go about describing the <strong><em>SENSE<\/em><\/strong> mod.<\/p>\n<p><strong>THIS IS <em>NOT<\/em> BULLETPROOFING!<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Anyone that says that simply performing the <strong>SENSE<\/strong> mod is bulletproofing<a href=\"#_ftn1\" name=\"_ftnref1\">[1]<\/a> an A\/R-II is lying to you or just <em>does not know any better<\/em>.\u00a0 Why?\u00a0 Because if the +5V regulation fails it is still possible to end up with more than +5V over the +5V line, which could damage any board connected to it.\u00a0 What kind of \u201cbulletproofing\u201d is that?\u00a0 (Shameless plug: that is why I designed a PCB with an adjustable crowbar circuit \u2013 THAT is how you bulletproof an A\/R-II!) Anyway \u2013 rant over\u2026 information on an easy way to perform the <strong>SENSE<\/strong> mod is shown below where I document connector <strong>J7<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<h2>Meet the Atari Regulator\/Audio II (mod -02)<\/h2>\n<p>This component, affectionally referred to as the A\/R-II (\u201c<em>A Are Two<\/em>\u201d even though calling it the <em>R\/A-II<\/em> would be more correct) was used in many of Atari\u2019s games from the \u201870s and \u201880s.\u00a0 It exists in various forms, from the original <strong>Regulator\/Audio<\/strong> board used in early B\/W games like <em>Asteroids<\/em> and <em>Atari Football<\/em>, to the <strong>Regulator\/Audio II<\/strong> used in many different color games to about the mid \u201880s (e.g. Centipede, Dig Dug, Kangaroo, Missile Command, Pole Position, Tempest, etc.), to the <strong>Regulator\/Audio III<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p>Its primary purpose was to supply necessary voltages for the game (logic, audio, and sometimes things like the odd voltages required to erase an EAROM), as well as provide audio amplification.\u00a0 Different versions of the board provided different features like different voltages, more amperage, etc.\u00a0 The image below shows a <strong>-02<\/strong> version.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/ARIISections.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-591\" src=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/ARIISections-300x142.png\" alt=\"AR-II Sections\" width=\"300\" height=\"142\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/ARIISections-300x142.png 300w, https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/ARIISections.png 720w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>Figure 1- AR-II Sections<\/p>\n<p>The board can be roughly divided into 3 areas that are shaded <strong>purple<\/strong>, <strong>green<\/strong>, and <strong>blue<\/strong> in the above image.\u00a0 The middle and upper-left areas are +5V regulation, the lower-left is audio amplification, and the right side is secondary voltages<br \/>\n(-5V, +12V, and +\/-22V).\u00a0 It is worth mentioning that both \u201chalves\u201d of the board are logically separate.\u00a0 You can apply power to only the left side and get your +5V and audio amps.\u00a0 And you can apply power to only the right side and get your secondary voltages.\u00a0 Both sides do not have to be powered up at the same time.<\/p>\n<p>The connectors are consistent between other versions and revisions of the board, so it may be possible to substitute one for the other depending on the voltages and\/or features required.\u00a0 For example, a <strong>-03<\/strong> can usually be used to replace a<br \/>\n<strong>-02<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Connectors<\/h2>\n<p>We will go through the connectors in order of their designations.<\/p>\n<h2>J6 \u2013 Main Power Input<\/h2>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/J6.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-592\" src=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/J6-300x294.png\" alt=\"J6 Connector\" width=\"300\" height=\"294\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/J6-300x294.png 300w, https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/J6.png 466w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>Figure 2 &#8211; AR-II Connector J6<\/p>\n<p>This connector supplies the power required to produce the regulated +5V and audio amps.\u00a0 Note that the +10.3VDC input is <em>unregulated<\/em> and may normally measure a couple of volts higher when not loaded, such as if you meter it directly on the power brick.<\/p>\n<h2>J7 \u2013 Main Power Output and Audio Input<\/h2>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/J7.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-593\" src=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/J7-268x300.png\" alt=\"J7 Connector\" width=\"268\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/J7-268x300.png 268w, https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/J7.png 644w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 268px) 100vw, 268px\" \/><\/a>Figure 3 &#8211; AR-II Connector J7<\/p>\n<p>This connector supplies the regulated +5V as well as the <strong>SENSE<\/strong> lines.\u00a0 It is also where unamplified audio comes into the board.<\/p>\n<h3>SENSE Circuit Description and the SENSE Mod<\/h3>\n<p>So, how about we stop here for a second to talk about <strong>SENSE<\/strong>.\u00a0 You may have heard of the infamous <strong>SENSE<\/strong> circuit on these boards, but what does it really do?\u00a0 Well, it is supposed to detect a voltage drop between the power supply and the game\u2019s board.\u00a0 On the game\u2019s PCB the +5V is routed to +SENSE, and GND (the +5V <em>return<\/em>) is connected to -SENSE.\u00a0 The A\/R board uses the voltage coming back on the <strong>SENSE<\/strong> lines to determine if it needs to bump up the voltage to compensate for any voltage drop that occurred on the way to the game\u2019s PCB.\u00a0 Sounds like a good idea at first, right?<\/p>\n<p>Well, now throw in a failing +5V connection to the board \u2013 like a dirty connection or a physically fatigued one.\u00a0 As more and more voltage is lost, the <strong>SENSE<\/strong> circuit will keep boosting the voltage, which can lead to overheating and exacerbate the failing connection.\u00a0 Remember that the +5V and +SENSE are connected on the game board?\u00a0 Well, if the +5V connection fails badly enough, the game might try to draw current over the +SENSE line.\u00a0 This is the cause of the infamous smoking of <strong>R30<\/strong> (and sometimes <strong>R29<\/strong>) \u2013 the game is trying to draw multiple amps across that poor little \u00bc or \u00bd watt resistor.<\/p>\n<p>So, the <strong>SENSE<\/strong> mod tricks the <strong>SENSE<\/strong> circuit into always seeing exactly what the A\/R board is putting out.\u00a0 This is done by connecting +5V and +SENSE together, and GND and -SENSE together, on the A\/R board itself.\u00a0 The easiest(?) way to do this is to turn the A\/R board over and solder a jumper between pins <strong>1<\/strong> and <strong>2<\/strong>, and another one between <strong>3<\/strong> and <strong>6<\/strong> on connector J7.\u00a0 Note that after doing this, you may have to manually adjust the <strong>+5V<\/strong> pot to get a solid <strong>+5V<\/strong> at the game board.<\/p>\n<p>It is also worth noting that if you ever need to bench test the board or adjust the voltage using the pot at <strong>R8<\/strong>, make sure that the <strong>+SENSE<\/strong> line is connected back to the <strong>+5V<\/strong> line either via the mod or by connecting-up a game board.\u00a0 The <strong>+SENSE<\/strong> line is what is connected to the feedback input on the <strong>+5V<\/strong> regulator and this feedback circuit is necessary for the board to work correctly.<\/p>\n<h2>J8 \u2013 Speaker (Amplified Audio) Output<\/h2>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/j8.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-594\" src=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/j8-278x300.png\" alt=\"J8 Connector\" width=\"278\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/j8-278x300.png 278w, https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/j8.png 424w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 278px) 100vw, 278px\" \/><\/a>Figure 4 -AR-II Connector J8<\/p>\n<p>This is the amplified audio (Speaker) connection.\u00a0 If you are used to seeing <em>positive<\/em> and <em>negative<\/em> speaker signals, consider the <strong>SPKR1<\/strong> and <strong>SPKR2<\/strong> signals to be the <em>positive<\/em> ones, and the <strong>GND<\/strong> to be the <em>negative<\/em> ones.<\/p>\n<h2>J9 \u2013 Secondary Power Input<\/h2>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/J9.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-595\" src=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/J9-286x300.png\" alt=\"J9 Connector\" width=\"286\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/J9-286x300.png 286w, https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/J9.png 436w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 286px) 100vw, 286px\" \/><\/a>Figure 5- AR-II Connector J9<\/p>\n<p>This connector provides the 36VAC (note \u2013 <strong>AC<\/strong>, <strong>not<\/strong> <strong>DC<\/strong> like on <strong>J6<\/strong>) input voltage to the board which is necessary to generate the additional +12, +\/-22, +\/-15, and -5 voltages.\u00a0 <strong>Not all A\/R boards are stuffed to produce all the secondary voltages<\/strong>.\u00a0 On the board shown in this document, the area that would be used to produce the +\/-15V is unpopulated.<\/p>\n<h2>J10 \u2013 Secondary Voltage Output<\/h2>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/J10.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-596\" src=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/J10-300x298.png\" alt=\"J10 Connector\" width=\"300\" height=\"298\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/J10-300x298.png 300w, https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/J10-150x150.png 150w, https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/J10.png 648w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>Figure 6 &#8211; AR-II Connector J10<\/p>\n<p>This connector provides the additional voltages produced from the 36VAC provided on connector <strong>J9<\/strong>.\u00a0 (Pins <strong>7<\/strong> and <strong>10<\/strong> would be the +\/-15V if it was present on this board.)\u00a0 Also note that the +\/-22V is <em>unregulated<\/em> and directly connected to the bridge\u2019s filtered output, so do not be surprised if you see a higher voltage when unloaded.<\/p>\n<h2>Operation<\/h2>\n<p>Here I will try to describe how this A\/R board works.<\/p>\n<table style=\"width: 113.08%; height: 166px;\">\n<tbody>\n<tr style=\"height: 166px;\">\n<td style=\"height: 166px;\" width=\"301\">\n<h3>Primary +5V Supply<\/h3>\n<p>The primary <strong>+5V<\/strong> supply derives from the +10.3VDC input to the left side of the board.\u00a0 This uses a <strong>LM305<\/strong> regulator marked <strong>Q1<\/strong> and transistors <strong>Q2<\/strong> and <strong>Q3<\/strong> to boost the output current.\u00a0 <strong>Q2<\/strong> (a <strong>TIP32<\/strong>) acts as a driver for the larger <strong>Q3<\/strong> (a <strong>2N3055<\/strong>).<\/p>\n<p>Excessive voltage or no voltage on the +5V line may be caused by a failed <strong>2N3055<\/strong> or a failed <strong>LM305<\/strong>.\u00a0 Suspect the <strong>2N3055<\/strong> if you have <strong>+5V<\/strong> present, but it drops when you load the +5V line.\u00a0 If you have no +5V output and the audio amps also appear to not be working, verify the +10.3VDC input voltage from the power brick.<\/td>\n<td style=\"height: 166px;\" width=\"433\">\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\" data-wp-editing=\"1\"><a href=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Primary.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-597 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Primary-300x205.png\" alt=\"Primary Voltage Section\" width=\"300\" height=\"205\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Primary-300x205.png 300w, https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Primary.png 399w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>Figure 7 &#8211; AR-II Primary Voltage Area<\/p>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<table style=\"width: 113.077%; height: 261px;\">\n<tbody>\n<tr style=\"height: 261px;\">\n<td style=\"width: 45.5696%; height: 261px;\" width=\"301\">\n<h3>Audio Amplifiers<\/h3>\n<p>Audio amplification is provided by the two <strong>TDA2002(AV)<\/strong> amplifiers.<\/p>\n<p>If you are having problems with distorted sound, I would start with the two larger output coupling caps, <strong>C9<\/strong> (SPKR1) and <strong>C10<\/strong> (SPKR2) before looking at the amplifiers themselves.<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 67.2521%; height: 261px;\" width=\"433\">\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Amplifiers.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-598\" src=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Amplifiers-300x224.png\" alt=\"Amplifiers Section\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Amplifiers-300x224.png 300w, https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Amplifiers.png 398w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>Figure 8 -AR-II Amplifier Area<\/p>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<table>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"301\">\n<h3>Secondary Voltages<\/h3>\n<p>The secondary voltages derive from the 36VAC input to the right side of the board.\u00a0 This AC goes through a traditional full-wave bridge rectifier constructed using four discrete diodes (<strong>CR5<\/strong>, <strong>CR6<\/strong>, <strong>CR7<\/strong> and <strong>CR8<\/strong>) with the two large smoothing caps <strong>C18<\/strong> and <strong>C19<\/strong>.\u00a0 Its output is used to produce all the secondary voltages.\u00a0 If you notice excessive ripple on any of the secondary voltages, especially the +\/-22V ones, check <strong>C18<\/strong> and <strong>C19<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p>If you notice a sudden voltage drop on the secondary voltages, or a complete loss of one of the polarities, check for failed diodes in the rectifier (i.e. the full-wave rectifier may have become a half-wave rectifier).<\/p>\n<h3>+\/-22V Unregulated Supply<\/h3>\n<p>This is directly connected to the post-smoothed rectifier output.\u00a0 If the incoming 36VAC is good and all the rectification and filtering is working correctly, you should see these voltages.\u00a0 These outputs might be the best ones to look at to help spot rectification and filtering issues.\u00a0 Remember this is an <em>unregulated<\/em> output so you may see a higher voltage here when unloaded.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/td>\n<td width=\"433\">\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Secondary.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-599\" src=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Secondary-300x253.png\" alt=\"Secondary Voltage Section\" width=\"300\" height=\"253\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Secondary-300x253.png 300w, https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Secondary.png 386w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>Figure 9 &#8211; AR-II Secondary Voltage Input<\/p>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<table>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"301\">\n<h3>\u00b115V Supply (Not present on this board.)<\/h3>\n<p>These voltages are produced by two regulators that use the unregulated \u00b1<strong>22V<\/strong> as inputs.\u00a0 The positive regulator is a <strong>7815<\/strong> and is connected to the positive side of the unregulated \u00b122V, and the negative one is a <strong>7915<\/strong> that is connected to the negative side of the unregulated \u00b122V.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/td>\n<td width=\"433\">\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Sec15Unpop.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-600\" src=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Sec15Unpop-300x153.png\" alt=\"Secondary Voltage Section (Unpopulated)\" width=\"300\" height=\"153\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Sec15Unpop-300x153.png 300w, https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Sec15Unpop.png 393w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>Figure 10 &#8211; \u00b115V Supply Area<\/p>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<table>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"301\">\n<h3>+12V Supply<\/h3>\n<p>This voltage is produced by a <strong>7812<\/strong> regulator connected to the positive side of the unregulated +\/-22V.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/td>\n<td width=\"433\">\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Sec12.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-601\" src=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Sec12-300x154.png\" alt=\"Secondary +12 Voltage Section\" width=\"300\" height=\"154\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Sec12-300x154.png 300w, https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Sec12.png 395w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>Figure 11 &#8211; +12V Supply<\/p>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<table>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"301\">\n<h3>\u2013 5V Supply<\/h3>\n<p>This voltage is produced by a <strong>7905<\/strong> regulator connected to the negative side of the unregulated +\/-22V.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/td>\n<td width=\"433\"><a href=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Sec5.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-602\" src=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Sec5-300x175.png\" alt=\"Secondary -5 Voltage Section\" width=\"300\" height=\"175\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Sec5-300x175.png 300w, https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/Sec5.png 391w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>Figure 12 &#8211; -5V Supply<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>\u00a0Troubleshooting<\/h2>\n<p>This section covers a few things that might help with troubleshooting and repair of an A\/R-II.<\/p>\n<p>First is a good adjustable power supply to produce the <strong>+10.3V<\/strong> for the primary side and either a transformer that will output ~<strong>36VAC<\/strong> or a variable one for the <strong>36VAC<\/strong> for the secondary side.\u00a0 I recommend working with one side at a time.<\/p>\n<p>Next is to get a good quality 2-ohm, 20 W cermet resistor.\u00a0 When briefly connected between +5V and GND it will pull 2.5 amps and I believe this is a suitable load to test the +5V line with.<\/p>\n<p>If testing on a bench, be sure to either have the sense mod performed or jumper together the +SENSE and +5V pins, and the -SENSE and GND pins.<\/p>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"301\"><strong>Problem\/Symptom<\/strong><\/td>\n<td width=\"433\"><strong>Possible Cause(s)<\/strong><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"301\">+5V is present and seems stable when measured while unloaded but drops to a much lower voltage when loaded<\/td>\n<td width=\"433\">1.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 The 5V regulator may have failed.<\/p>\n<p>2.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 The 5V regulator is working, but the board cannot provide the additional current that would normally be provided via <strong>Q2<\/strong> and\/or <strong>Q3<\/strong>, so one or both may have failed (likely just <strong>Q3<\/strong>).<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"301\">No +5V present, audio amplification seems to be working<\/td>\n<td width=\"433\">1.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 This could mean that the 5V regulator has failed.<\/p>\n<p>2.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 This could mean that the 5V regulator is working, but the board cannot provide the additional current that would normally be provided via <strong>Q2<\/strong> and\/or <strong>Q3<\/strong>, so one or both may have failed (likely just <strong>Q3<\/strong>).<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"301\">No +5V and no audio amplification<\/td>\n<td width=\"433\">Check the 10.3VDC input and fuses on power brick.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"301\">One or more audio channels is not working<\/td>\n<td width=\"433\">The amplifier for that audio channel may have failed \u2013 check the <strong>TDA2002<\/strong> at <strong>Q5<\/strong> for SPKR1 and\/or the one at <strong>Q7<\/strong> for SPKR2.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"301\">One or more audio channels are distorted<\/td>\n<td width=\"433\">The output coupling cap for that audio channel may be leaky and need to be replaced \u2013 check <strong>C9<\/strong> for SPKR1 and\/or <strong>C10<\/strong> for SPKR2.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"301\">+5V has excessive ripple present or the game is experiencing excessive crashes, resets, visual artifacts, odd behaviors, etc.; sometimes an audio hum can also be heard<\/td>\n<td width=\"433\">Check the large filtering capacitor (the \u201cBig Blue\u201d) on the power brick.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"301\">Secondary voltages have excessive ripple present (especially noticeable on the +\/-22V).<\/td>\n<td width=\"433\">Check the two large filtering capacitors on the right side of the board \u2013 <strong>C18<\/strong> and <strong>C19<\/strong>.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"301\">Secondary voltages are missing a polarity or a reduction in output is voltage is present<\/td>\n<td width=\"433\">One or more of the diodes that comprise the full-wave bridge rectifier on the right side of the board may have failed \u2013 check <strong>CR5<\/strong>, <strong>CR6<\/strong>, <strong>CR7<\/strong> or <strong>CR8<\/strong>.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"301\">Missing one or more of the regulated secondary voltages.<\/td>\n<td width=\"433\">The regulator for the associated voltage may have failed \u2013 check the <strong>7905<\/strong> for the -5, or the <strong>7812<\/strong> for the +12.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"301\">Pulling too much current on the 36VAC (blown fuses).<\/td>\n<td width=\"433\">One or more diodes in the bridge may have shorted \u2013 check <strong>CR5<\/strong>, <strong>CR6<\/strong>, <strong>CR7<\/strong> or <strong>CR8<\/strong>.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<h2>Component Layout and Parts List<\/h2>\n<p>The following is a redrawn parts layout for this A\/R-II board.\u00a0 Location may not be precise or exact down to a millimeter but should allow you to locate and identify components of interest.\u00a0 A parts list is also included.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/AR-IIPartsLayoutAndList.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-791\" src=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/AR-IIPartsLayoutAndList-259x300.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"259\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/AR-IIPartsLayoutAndList-259x300.png 259w, https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/AR-IIPartsLayoutAndList-768x889.png 768w, https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/08\/AR-IIPartsLayoutAndList.png 863w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 259px) 100vw, 259px\" \/><\/a>Figure 13 &#8211; Layout and Parts<\/p>\n<h1>Parts List<\/h1>\n<p>This is a text-only version of the parts list, searchable and copyable.<\/p>\n<table style=\"border-style: hidden; width: 100%;\" width=\"100%\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 14.6414%;\" width=\"10%\">\n<h3><strong>Part<\/strong><\/h3>\n<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 34.3586%;\" width=\"39%\">\n<h3><strong>Description<\/strong><\/h3>\n<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 3%;\" width=\"3%\">\n<h3><strong>\u00a0<\/strong><\/h3>\n<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 11%;\" width=\"11%\">\n<h3><strong>Part<\/strong><\/h3>\n<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 35%;\" width=\"35%\">\n<h3><strong>Description<\/strong><\/h3>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 14.6414%;\" width=\"10%\"><strong>Q5, Q7<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 34.3586%;\" width=\"39%\">TDA2002A 8W Linear Audio Amplifier<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 3%;\" width=\"3%\"><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 11%;\" width=\"11%\">R8<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 35%;\" width=\"35%\">1K Ohm Vertical PCB-Mounting Cermet Trimpot<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 14.6414%;\" width=\"10%\"><strong>C3, C11, C20, C21<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 34.3586%;\" width=\"39%\">.1 \u00b5F Ceramic-Disc 25V Radial-Lead Capacitor<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 3%;\" width=\"3%\"><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 11%;\" width=\"11%\">R24<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 35%;\" width=\"35%\">.1 Ohm \u00b13%, 7W Wirewound Resistor<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 14.6414%;\" width=\"10%\"><strong>C5, C14<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 34.3586%;\" width=\"39%\">.01 \u00b5F Ceramic-Disc 25V Radial-Lead Capacitor<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 3%;\" width=\"3%\"><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 11%;\" width=\"11%\">R10, R19<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 35%;\" width=\"35%\">1 Ohm \u00b15%, 1\/4 W Resistor<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 14.6414%;\" width=\"10%\"><strong>C2, C7, C16<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 34.3586%;\" width=\"39%\">.001 \u00b5F Ceramic-Disc Minimum 25V Radial-Lead Capacitor<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 3%;\" width=\"3%\"><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 11%;\" width=\"11%\">R11, R20, R29, R30<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 35%;\" width=\"35%\">10 Ohm \u00b15%, 1\/4 W Resistor<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 14.6414%;\" width=\"10%\"><strong>C6, C8, C15, C17<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 34.3586%;\" width=\"39%\">.22 \u00b5F Ceramic-Disc 25V Capacitor<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 3%;\" width=\"3%\"><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 11%;\" width=\"11%\">R4, R12, R22<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 35%;\" width=\"35%\">100 Ohm \u00b15%, 1\/4 W Resistor<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 14.6414%;\" width=\"10%\"><strong>C13<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 34.3586%;\" width=\"39%\">1000 \u00b5F Aluminum Electrolytic Fixed Axial-Lead 25V Capacitor<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 3%;\" width=\"3%\"><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 11%;\" width=\"11%\">R27, R28<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 35%;\" width=\"35%\">1K Ohm \u00b15%, 1\/4 W Resistor<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 14.6414%;\" width=\"10%\"><strong>Cl, C4, C12<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 34.3586%;\" width=\"39%\">470 \u00b5F Aluminum Electrolytic Fixed Axial-Lead 25V Capacitor<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 3%;\" width=\"3%\"><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 11%;\" width=\"11%\">R13, R14<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 35%;\" width=\"35%\">10K Ohm \u00b15%, 1\/4 W Resistor<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 14.6414%;\" width=\"10%\"><strong>C9, C10, C18, C19<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 34.3586%;\" width=\"39%\">3300 \u00b5F Aluminum Electrolytic Fixed Axial-Lead 35V Capacitor<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 3%;\" width=\"3%\"><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 11%;\" width=\"11%\">R1<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 35%;\" width=\"35%\">270 Ohm \u00b15%, 1\/4 W Resistor<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 14.6414%;\" width=\"10%\"><strong>C22, C23<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 34.3586%;\" width=\"39%\">1 \u00b5F Aluminum Electrolytic Fixed Axial-Lead 50V Capacitor<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 3%;\" width=\"3%\"><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 11%;\" width=\"11%\">R3<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 35%;\" width=\"35%\">33 Ohm \u00b15%, 1\/4 W Resistor<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 14.6414%;\" width=\"10%\"><strong>C24, C31<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 34.3586%;\" width=\"39%\">22 \u00b5F Aluminum Electrolytic Fixed Axial-Lead 35V Capacitor<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 3%;\" width=\"3%\"><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 11%;\" width=\"11%\">R6<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 35%;\" width=\"35%\">3.9K Ohm \u00b15%, 1\/4 W Resistor<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 14.6414%;\" width=\"10%\"><strong>CR1, CR4<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 34.3586%;\" width=\"39%\">1N4002 Diode 100V 1-Amp<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 3%;\" width=\"3%\"><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 11%;\" width=\"11%\">R32, R33<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 35%;\" width=\"35%\">5.6K Ohm \u00b15%, 1\/4 W Resistor<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 14.6414%;\" width=\"10%\"><strong>CR5, CR6, CR7, CR8<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 34.3586%;\" width=\"39%\">1N5401 Diode 100V 3-Amp<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 3%;\" width=\"3%\"><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 11%;\" width=\"11%\">R7<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 35%;\" width=\"35%\">7.5K Ohm \u00b15%, 1\/4 W Resistor<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 14.6414%;\" width=\"10%\"><strong>Q2<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 34.3586%;\" width=\"39%\">TIP32 Transistor<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 3%;\" width=\"3%\"><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 11%;\" width=\"11%\">R9, R21<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 35%;\" width=\"35%\">220 Ohm \u00b15%, 1\/2 W Resistor<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 14.6414%;\" width=\"10%\"><strong>Q3<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 34.3586%;\" width=\"39%\">2N3055 Transistor<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 3%;\" width=\"3%\"><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 11%;\" width=\"11%\">R5<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 35%;\" width=\"35%\">2.7 Ohm \u00b15%, 1 W Resistor<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 14.6414%;\" width=\"10%\"><strong>QI<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 34.3586%;\" width=\"39%\">LM305 +5V Regulator (TO-99 Case)<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 3%;\" width=\"3%\"><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 11%;\" width=\"11%\">R31<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 35%;\" width=\"35%\">22 Ohm \u00b15%, 10 W Wirewound Resistor<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 14.6414%;\" width=\"10%\"><strong>Q8<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 34.3586%;\" width=\"39%\">7812 +12V Regulator<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 3%;\" width=\"3%\"><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 11%;\" width=\"11%\">R25<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 35%;\" width=\"35%\">4 Ohm \u00b15%, 5 W Wirewound Resistor<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 14.6414%;\" width=\"10%\"><strong>Q9<\/strong><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 34.3586%;\" width=\"39%\">7905 -5V Regulator<\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 3%;\" width=\"3%\"><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 11%;\" width=\"11%\"><\/td>\n<td style=\"width: 35%;\" width=\"35%\"><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h1>Modifications<\/h1>\n<h3>Converting a -02 to -03<\/h3>\n<p>The version <strong>-03<\/strong> of the AR-II is almost identical to the <strong>-02<\/strong> but with a few changes for the increased current demands of Missile Command (and Monte Carlo?).\u00a0 The differences are:<\/p>\n<p><strong>R25<\/strong> \u2013 the 4 ohm 5W resistor is replaced with a jumper (or you might see a black zero-ohm resistor)<\/p>\n<p><strong>R31<\/strong> \u2013 the 22 ohm 10W resistor is replaced with a 15 ohm resistor<\/p>\n<p>This also means that you <em>should<\/em> be able to safely substitute a <strong>-03<\/strong> for an <strong>-02<\/strong> if necessary.<\/p>\n<h1>Connectors<\/h1>\n<p>AFAICT, the Molex connectors used on these boards has been discontinued but you can find compatible clones that are often referred to as \u201c5038 Series Connectors\u201d or \u201c5038 Connectors\u201d and can be found on sites like AliExpress (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.aliexpress.us\/w\/wholesale-5038-Series-Connector-.html\">https:\/\/www.aliexpress.us\/w\/wholesale-5038-Series-Connector-.html<\/a>) and Amazon (<a href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/s?k=5038+Connector\">https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/s?k=5038+Connector<\/a>).\u00a0 These are helpful for repairing wring harnesses and\/or for creating a set of test cables.\u00a0 Unfortunately, trying to locate the PCB mount pins is a little harder.\u00a0 They tend to only be available in large quantities and are <strong>expensive<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<h2>Notes<\/h2>\n<p>If you find any errors with this document or want to provide additional information, critiques, feedback, etc. please send an email to the address shown at the top of this document.\u00a0 Contributions welcome!<\/p>\n<p><em>Thank you.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"#_ftnref1\" name=\"_ftn1\">[1]<\/a> You do not wear a bulletproof vest to <em>prevent<\/em> things from going wrong, you wear one for when things <strong><em>do<\/em><\/strong> go wrong.\u00a0 If you are not able to completely prevent or robustly <em>handle<\/em> a catastrophic failure, I would suggest that you are <strong>not<\/strong> <em>bulletproofing<\/em>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Atari Regulator\/Audio II (AKA the A\/R-II) Version -02 Information By James R. Twine (jtwine@jrtwine.com) \u00a92009-2026 Latest version available online at https:\/\/www.jrtwine.com\/blog\/?p=590 &nbsp; References and Source Material Information is this document is from personal experience with these beasts, and some was stole^H^H^H^H^H\u2026 um, I mean\u2026 inspired\u2026 from many sources including official Atari docs (wiring diagrams, schematics) [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,9,8],"tags":[86,116,56,88,117],"class_list":["post-590","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-repair-logs","category-atari","category-resources","tag-ar-ii","tag-ar2","tag-atari","tag-power-supply","tag-ra-ii"],"aioseo_notices":[],"aioseo_head":"\n\t\t<!-- All in One SEO 5.0.1.1 - aioseo.com -->\n\t<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Atari Regulator\/Audio II (AKA the A\/R-II) Version -02 Information By James R. 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