{"id":59,"date":"2008-03-30T20:28:23","date_gmt":"2008-03-31T00:28:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.jrtwine.com\/blog\/?p=59"},"modified":"2016-02-02T09:27:02","modified_gmt":"2016-02-02T05:27:02","slug":"capping-punch-out","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/capping-punch-out\/","title":{"rendered":"Capping Punch-Out!!"},"content":{"rendered":"

Well, I finally got around to capping the two monitors on my Punch-Out!!<\/strong> game, and let me tell you, it is a serious pain in the ass!<\/p>\n

It is bad enough that the Sanyo 20-EZ monitors are pains to cap in the first place, there are even more so when mounted horizontally in a narrow cabinet! Took more than three(!) hours for me to do the first (upper) one. The second one was a bit faster, clocking in at about 1 hour and 45 minutes.<\/p>\n

A bit of hard work, to be sure, but the results speak for themselves:<\/p>\n

Before: \"Top<\/a><\/center> <\/p>\n

After: \"Top<\/a><\/center><\/p>\n

Also, note that there is screen burn from the collapsed line that was there before. This means that the game was in operation for a long time<\/em> while it needed a cap kit!<\/p>\n

While working on the monitor chassis boards, I was never more happy to have purchased a soldering and desoldering station a couple of years ago (shown sitting atop the Punch-Out!!):<\/p>\n

\"Soldering\/Desoldering<\/a><\/center>And here you can get a shot of how I had to work on the board – dangling out of the cabinet, wires everywhere:<\/p>\n

\"PCB<\/a><\/center>Oh, and how do ‘ya like my nice little way of securing the PCB in the air while I work on it? \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n

Much thanks go to The Real Bob RobertsTM<\/small><\/sup><\/a> for the cap kits (I purchased the 20EZ Plus<\/strong> kit, which has 9 additional chassis caps), and to Brien King (no, I did not misspell Brien<\/em>), which has a step-by-step guide to getting the chassis PCB out of the Sanyo 20-EZ monitor at Arcade Restoration Workshop<\/a>. I used the document for the first monitor, and tackled the second one from memory.<\/p>\n

I also cleaned and changed the spring on the joystick. It is no longer as sticky<\/em> as it was before thanks to getting all that old dirty grease out of it. However, it is still far too loose for my taste. It is playable, and I have played games in the arcade in far worse<\/strong> condition, but it still would be nice to have it a bit stiffer.<\/p>\n

Also replaced the batteries in it so that the high score table works correctly again. Surprisingly, there is not a lot of corrosion in there.<\/p>\n

OK – I think it may be ready to sell soon…!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Results of installing cap kits on both monitors in a Punch-Out!!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,17,7],"tags":[20,25,24,57,23,22,21,26],"class_list":["post-59","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-repair-logs","category-nintendo","category-repair-logs-2","tag-arcade","tag-cap-kit","tag-monitor","tag-nintendo","tag-punch-out","tag-punchout","tag-repair","tag-repair-log"],"aioseo_notices":[],"aioseo_head":"\n\t\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t