{"id":202,"date":"2015-09-14T05:09:16","date_gmt":"2015-09-14T01:09:16","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.jrtwine.com\/blog\/?p=202"},"modified":"2016-02-02T09:17:03","modified_gmt":"2016-02-02T05:17:03","slug":"joust-with-an-input-problem-1st-player-always-runs-left","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/joust-with-an-input-problem-1st-player-always-runs-left\/","title":{"rendered":"Joust With an Input Problem &#8211; 1st Player Always Runs Left"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[This was extracted from a large article about getting a dead Joust operational. \u00a0I thought it made sense to put this part in its own post to help anyone else with a similar issue. \u00a0It may reference content from the previous two posts <a href=\"http:\/\/www.jrtwine.com\/blog\/?p=171\">here<\/a> and <a href=\"http:\/\/www.jrtwine.com\/blog\/?p=201\">here<\/a>.]<\/p>\n<p>&#8230;So now I have a Joust that boots correctly and comes up into its attract\u00a0mode normally. \u00a0However,\u00a0after coining it up and starting a game, I still have some issues &#8211; player 1 starts running to the left non-stop!<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 1280px;\" class=\"wp-video\"><video class=\"wp-video-shortcode\" id=\"video-202-1\" width=\"1280\" height=\"720\" preload=\"metadata\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"video\/mp4\" src=\"http:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/RunJoustRun.mp4?_=1\" \/><a href=\"http:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/RunJoustRun.mp4\">http:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/RunJoustRun.mp4<\/a><\/video><\/div>\n<p>Opening the control panel shows the switch is not stuck, and disconnecting its harness did not change the behavior, so I have another board-level issue to resolve. \u00a0The input board multiplexes two sets of switches into a 6821 PIA, and the switches\u00a0come in through one of two header connectors on the board.<\/p>\n<p><!--more-->I disconnected the connectors from the header and probed it. \u00a0This showed\u00a0the pin for &#8220;P1 Left&#8221; (pin one on the left connector) was\u00a0high, which is correct because the switch lines are <em>pulled up<\/em> on the board. \u00a0Since the lines are directly connected to an inverter (a\u00a0<strong>4049<\/strong> CMOS inverter) and are being pulled up by a resistor pack, I presume\u00a0that the problem is on the output side of the inverter or beyond. \u00a0(If the input side of the inverter was screwing things up, I would expect to have seen something like it pulling the line <em>down<\/em>, and would have seen that on the header pin.)<\/p>\n<p>Sure enough, the switch signal goes into pin 7 of one of the inverters, but the corresponding output pin (pin 6) is floating. \u00a0I think I have found the culprit. \u00a0I do not have any of these inverters nor a suitable cross in stock so I am thinking of pulling an <em>operator-style-hack<\/em>\u00a0and wire\u00a0a <strong>7404<\/strong> &#8220;in the air&#8221; (actually, a <strong>74HCT04 <\/strong>&#8211; even though the <strong>4049<\/strong> is a CMOS chip, the supply and signal voltages are still TTL level, so I believe the <strong>74HCT04<\/strong>\u00a0will work correctly) and use one of its inverters to replace the functionality of the bad one on the <strong>4049<\/strong> just to get the game fully playable. \u00a0This is how it is wired:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/JoustInverterHackWiring.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-203 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/JoustInverterHackWiring.png\" alt=\"JoustInverterHackWiring\" width=\"312\" height=\"572\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/JoustInverterHackWiring.png 312w, https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/JoustInverterHackWiring-164x300.png 164w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 312px) 100vw, 312px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&#8230;and after wire-wrapped four wires to a <strong>74HCT04<\/strong> and\u00a0making the connections by looping wires under the pins of the <strong>4049<\/strong> and twisting to secure them. \u00a0Not exactly a foolproof connection, but enough to verify that the idea will work. \u00a0Powered-up the game, and nothing smoked immediately (always a good sign), so I waited for the game to boot, coined it up and started a game. \u00a0It worked! \u00a0The player was no longer running to the left and the controls were working correctly.<\/p>\n<p>Here is a pic of the prototype wiring (it was a bit ugly):<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_205\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-205\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/JoustInverterHackProto.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-205\" src=\"http:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/JoustInverterHackProto-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"One ugly operator-ish hack comin' right up!\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/JoustInverterHackProto-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/JoustInverterHackProto-768x1024.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-205\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">One ugly operator-ish hack comin&#8217; right up!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>And there is how the final version looks. \u00a0I used some double-sided foam to attach the <strong>74HCT04<\/strong> upside-down to the board and wired it to more convenient (but electrically identical) locations to eliminate the amount of wire running around the board.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_211\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-211\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/JoustInverterHack-e1442192799359.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-211 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/JoustInverterHack-e1442192799359-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"JoustInverterHack\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/JoustInverterHack-e1442192799359-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/jrtwine.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/JoustInverterHack-e1442192799359-768x1024.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-211\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Less ugly version of the hack<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>[This was extracted from a large article about getting a dead Joust operational. \u00a0I thought it made sense to put this part in its own post to help anyone else with a similar issue. \u00a0It may reference content from the previous two posts here and here.] &#8230;So now I have a Joust that boots correctly [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,7,58],"tags":[64,63,20,66,61,62,60,21,26,65,59],"class_list":["post-202","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-repair-logs","category-repair-logs-2","category-williams","tag-64","tag-63","tag-arcade","tag-control","tag-input","tag-inverter","tag-joust","tag-repair","tag-repair-log","tag-stuck","tag-williams"],"aioseo_notices":[],"aioseo_head":"\n\t\t<!-- All in One SEO 5.0.1.1 - aioseo.com -->\n\t<meta name=\"description\" content=\"[This was extracted from a large article about getting a dead Joust operational. 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